I can’t help it…my childhood influenced the way I see New Zealand. You see, I grew up in a small town just a few hours away from Yellowstone National Park. My family would often camp right outside the park and we’d visit the “old west” town of West Yellowstone. We’d walk down the wooden sidewalks, stop into quaint candy shops, and I’d beg my parents for dollar trinkets at the themed “mercantile” stores. I have fond memories of the drive into Yellowstone to see bear, moose and buffalo right at the side of the road. It was always a fantastic summer vacation!
Fast forward thirty years to today…
Sometimes the most amazing places become too popular, but New Zealand’s not there…yet!
The campground I visited as a child requires reservations a year in advance. The wooden planked sidewalks of West Yellowstone are so packed with tourists…it’s reminiscent of a New York City street. And many of the bear, moose and buffalo have migrated away from the crowds…far away, to safe ground…where you can only see them through high-powered binoculars.
It’s the price of fame, I guess…but a lesson I take to heart. Sometimes the most awesome places in the world are discovered by the masses and when they are…people flock there to see it. And when they do…you lose the serenity and beauty you came to experience in the first place.
What does this have to do with New Zealand?
New Zealand today is what Yellowstone National Park was like when I was a kid…only better! And I suspect that just like Yellowstone, it will become more and more popular as years go by and it may end up losing some of the unbelievable serenity it now offers.
Why visit New Zealand now? Two Reasons…
Reason #1: No commercialization and few people
We were pleasantly surprised to see how few tour operators were on Doubtful Sound.
Keep in mind that we visited during New Zealand’s shoulder season (just after their Summer but before Fall set in). We know that it can get busier than what we experienced; however, what caught us by surprise was the lack of tourist infrastructure in the areas we visited…and how there was virtually no commercialization. Don’t get me wrong – you will find tour operators, hotels and retail operation. But NOT THAT MUCH! It’s clear to see that even if it’s the peak of the busy season, the places we went are just not that commercial compared to many places in the United States. Instead, what you find is what you came there for – natural beauty and serenity.
With that being said, because there are fewer tour operators, if you’re going during peak season, you’ll need to book in advance to get some tickets because they will sell out. Similarly, if you’re going to rent a van and camp during the peak summer months, you’ll have to plan ahead because many areas fill up quickly. And definitely, if you hike on any of the country’s nine “Great Walks” or some of the more popular hiking tracks, you’ll need to plan about a year in advance and expect more crowds.
We had only a few other hikers on the Abel Tasman Coastal track, which gave us the serenity we love!
But keep in mind, New Zealand has done a great job of managing the crowds and that is part of the reason for these attractions selling out. In most natural areas, they simply limit the amount of people to help keep it from becoming overrun. However, there are some exceptions to this. If you’re going to the most popular places in New Zealand like Milford Sound, Queenstown, Hobbiton (the Hobbit movie set), the Tongariro Alpine Crossing day hike, the Waitomo Glowworm Caves, or the Rotorua mud pools, you’ll still find hordes of people. But even then…it’s tame compared to many places we’ve seen.
In line with this, there’s a saying in New Zealand that the sheep outnumber the people in the South Island. We believe this is true 😊. Just two weeks outside of summer peak season (their summer is mid-December through mid-March), we found that we could drive down the road for miles and only see one or two other cars. To put it into perspective, just imaging driving all the way through California to see the natural wonders of Yosemite, Big Sur and Lake Tahoe and only coming across a few people along the way. It was so refreshing, and we felt so lucky to have experienced New Zealand now…before it becomes more packed with people!
Reason #2: A full spectrum of natural beauty
New Zealand’s diverse landscape offers unique places like the fiordlands.
When you hear the name “New Zealand”…what’s the first thing you think of? Is it the movie the Lord of the Rings? Is it massive snow peaked mountains or lush green rolling hills? Or is it stark volcanic peaks jetting up into the sky…or maybe sailboats racing along the shores of a bay? If any of these images come to mind, you are right!
That’s the best part of New Zealand…it has all of this and more! And it’s all packed into two islands (the North and South Islands), each roughly the size of California. That means you can visit all of these different scenic worlds within a day’s drive (or realistically two if you’re driving straight from the top of the North Island to the very bottom of the South Island).
New Zealand also offers several wine regions with plenty of wine tasting rooms.
This diverse landscape reminds me a lot of the United States, with a slight difference. Instead of driving days to get from lush forests to desert flatlands…or from sandy beaches to rolling farmland…you can reach all of this and more within hours! It’s kind of like…if the entire United States were squished into California, Oregon and Washington…that’s what it reminded me of! But even then, New Zealand also offers landscapes and natural beauty that can’t be found anywhere else.
During our three-week visit to New Zealand we made our way all around the South Island and up to the North Island. In the north we visited several different places before heading straight to the Auckland Airport to fly out. Below is a summary of the places we visited, to give you an idea of just how diverse this country is. Hopefully it will help you plan your upcoming spring break vacation (to hit New Zealand’s summer). Don’t wait any longer…visit this awesome place before the herd of tourists figure out how amazing it is!
South Island
Suburbia
Christchurch: Suburban in its look and feel, this place will remind you of any town or city at home, but with New Zealand accents…and drivers on the other side of the road. 😉 We didn’t get a great chance to explore all that Christchurch has to offer, but there are plenty of lodging options, grocery stores, restaurants, and bars, so it’s a great starting point if you’re heading to explore the South Island.
Alpine mountains
Aoraki Mount Cook National Park:
One of our favorite New Zealand day hikes was at Aoraki Mount Cook.
Truly one of the most amazing sites in the country, this mountainous area is ripe with jagged peaks, glaciers and snow-capped mountains, forests, and some of the most beautiful blue-green, emerald, glacier waters we’ve ever seen. The mountain itself is known for some of the most challenging and extreme mountain climbing in the world and you can find a huge amount of hiking trails including one of our favorites…the Hooker Valley Track where you can make your way to the base of the mountain to gaze at the glaciers that sit on the majestic Aoraki Mt. Cook above.
Mountains
These views were around every corner when we crossed the New Zealand mountains.
On the drive from the west coast of the South Island to the city of Nelson, we crossed through this national park. It reminded me of the Rocky Mountains in Montana and Colorado, or the Sierra Nevada mountain range in California. Just like these places, Kahurangi is ideal for camping but with one huge advantage…it has no predatory animals. You heard right! If you’ve ever hiked or camped in the western United States, you’re always wondering when you might run into a bob cat, mountain lion, bear or moose. None of these exist in New Zealand so you can sleep tight in your tent like a baby! How cool is that!?!?
Rolling hills and flatlands
Agricultural lands near Invercargill:
Even the agricultural lands were stunning on New Zealand’s South Island.
Although we didn’t make it to the city of Invercargill, our route took us through the agricultural lands in the area. Warmer and dryer, this region is perfect for growing crops and raising cattle and sheep (including Merino sheep). It’s also known as one of the best growing regions in the country for red wine…which doesn’t hurt! The landscape is filled with rolling hills of green grass dotted with sheep and cattle. The coastal area just east of here is known for being remote and rugged and offers some of the best chances to view unique birds and coastal life, including penguins.
Fiordlands
Massive rainforest mountains surround the waters of Doubtful Sound in New Zealand.
Unique to New Zealand are its fiordlands (fancy word for a long, narrow, deep inlet of the sea between high cliffs). In the Manapouri/Doubtful Sound area, lush green mountains covered in thick moss and rainforests loom over serene lakes and water inlets. With so much rain in the region, the mountains cry tears of waterfalls while the fog rolls in…which gives the area a very cool, mystical quality. A visit to the Fiordlands National Park makes you feel like you’re in a “Lord of the Rings” movie…probably because several scenes from the blockbuster movie were shot in the area. Go figure!
Alpine villages
Queenstown not only offers extreme sports, its also energetic, vibrant and packed with restaurants and bars.
If you’ve visited mountainous ski areas like the ones in Sun Valley, Idaho; Aspen, Colorado; or Lake Tahoe, California…then Queenstown New Zealand will seem familiar to you. One of the larger towns in the South Island, the Queenstown “village” sits at the edge of Lake Wakatipu surrounded by pine trees and ski slopes on the nearby mountains. Queenstown is known for its extreme and adventure sports, so it’s not unusual to see bungee jumping from a bridge, hang gliding, paragliding, parachuting and any other crazy activity you can think of. As a result, the town has a very young, fun and energetic vibe to it.
Lakeside retreats
Lake Wanaka is where the locals go to hang at the lake and enjoy outdoor and water activities.
This area is known as the place locals go to get away and soak up sun. Unlike the other lakes around Mt. Cook and the Fiordlands, Lake Wanaka is a bit warmer in the summer and is much better for water sports. The town of Wanaka is a bit lest “alpine” looking than some we saw, but it gives you the feeling of a welcoming, laid-back lake retreat. And just like so many other places in New Zealand, Wanaka offers a large amount of outdoor activities (skiing, hiking, climbing, glaciers etc.) due to its close proximity to Mt. Aspiring National Park.
Ocean views and alpine glaciers
Bruce Bay, Fox Glacier and West Coast:
Bruce’s Bay on New Zealand’s west coast is just one of many great coastal stops.
A drive up the west coast of New Zealand was listed as one of the top things to do on the island. To me, our four-hour drive felt a little like taking a trip up the California coast…but with more beech trees than pine trees and with far less people! Even better, the drive stretches from sea views (the most direct at Bruce Bay), to field views, to spectacular views of the “Southern Alps” mountain range.
From New Zealand’s west coast you can take a drive/hike to see the Franz Josef glacier.
On the journey you’ll go through two separate villages where you can take short (but popular) side trips up the mountain to groomed hiking trails to see the Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier up close (as permitted). Driving north up the west coast further, you’ll end up with rugged ocean views similar to what you might find near the Oregon coast, but slightly warmer.
Cool little coastal towns
Hokitika offers glowworms, a hopping downtown and these beach sunsets.
This small town on the west coast of New Zealand’s South Island is the perfect place to stay if you’re taking a drive on the west coast. Hokitika is known as a “cool little town” and we totally agree! It offers a quaint downtown area with shopping, restaurants and bars, all just a few short blocks away from the ocean. On the beach are miles of twisted drift wood scattered throughout, giving it the feel of a rugged, yet approachable coastline. If seeing New Zealand’s famous glow worms is on the “to do” list, you can actually see them here for free! Hokitika has a fantastic Glowworm Dell tucked away on the side of a road where the little guys come out at night to shine bright.
Arts and wine country
The Traveling Wino couldn’t pass up wine tasting in Nelson New Zealand.
Located at the northern part of the South Island, Nelson is a community that’s known for its love of the arts as well as its extensive biking trails and numerous outdoor and water activities. In this sunny region you’ll find tons of wineries that specialize mostly in white wines like Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. In fact, New Zealand’s most famous wine region, the Marlborough region, is just northeast of Nelson. For something totally different, explore the whole area by bike on the Great Taste Trail and stop at craft breweries and wineries along the way! We didn’t do this, but we wish we had!
Remote coastline
Golden Bay and Abel Tasman National Park:
The Abel Tasman Coastal Track is a 4-day hike but you can do a 1-day section with this view.
Golden Bay is known by the locals as a “hippie” place but we found it to be tame compared to California and Oregon 😉. The only way to access Golden Bay is a winding drive over a mountain pass, which makes it a bit secluded and sleepy. However, the beaches and coastal rock formations are some of the most gorgeous we’ve seen. This is the more remote way to get to the neighboring Abel Tasman National Park, where you can do a day hike on the Abel Tasman Coast Track (one of New Zealand’s Great Walks). The trail has you walking across white sand beaches and wading across a shell-filled channel during low tide (which was super cool!). It was one of the most amazing hikes we’ve ever done, and we’d return to New Zealand again just to spend more time in this fantastic national park!
Hot springs
The views never ended in New Zealand! This was taken on the way to Hamner Springs.
On our way back to fly out of Christchurch we stayed at a “local’s place” about an hour away that’s tucked up in the mountains just before you reach the east coast of the South Island. To get there you pass beautiful turquoise rivers and majestic mountain passes and end up in a small village with shops, restaurants and bars. The centerpiece of Hamner Springs is a nice, (but a bit pricy) natural hot springs. Since it’s a rather small place, it’s easy to get around the town but there’s also plenty to do.
North Island
Hip urban city
Wellington: We had such a short visit to Wellington, we were disappointed we didn’t get to explore this cool city more. Sitting on the very southern tip of the North Island, Wellington is a historic, hilly city that has the feel of San Francisco or Seattle. It has narrow roads that often leave you in a position where only one car can pass at a time (note: downhill always has the right of way!) Wellington also has an energetic and hip urban vibe to it. With massive stairways climbing from one stylish neighborhood to the next…and with a robust arts scene…and with incredible views of the bay…you could spend a whole week exploring, experiencing, and bar hopping your way through this cool city.
Wine country
The Napier region of the North Island is known for its wineries…but we also found this view!
We specifically headed to Napier because its known for its wineries that specialize in big bold reds, which we love! We were excited to visit for a day of New Zealand wine tasting, and we found to be wonderful here. We also discovered that Napier has a unique downtown with art deco architecture from the 1930s. And we found a great lookout point with a stunning view of the ocean and surrounding valleys. Not a bad place to visit for a couple of winos!
Geothermal
What can I say…#ILOVETAUPO!
This region is known for its active volcanic and geothermal natural wonders. But don’t start thinking its all covered with lava rock…because its not! Its lush and green and home to Lake Taupo (the largest fresh water lake in Australasia) where you can swim, boat and trout fish. It also has an abundance of waterfalls and rivers where you can kayak and raft.
Our Airbnb host showed us this natural hot springs where the water is literally boiling!!
Mountain biking and triathlete competitions like the Ironman New Zealand event take place at Taupo. About an hour north of Lake Taupo is Rotorua, which has geothermal features including spouting geysers, bubbling mud pools and multi-colored (and scorching) hot pools. It’s also a treasured area for learning more about the native Maori culture. If you’re a Lord of the Rings fan, about an hour north of Rotorua, you’ll find the Hobbiton movie set near the town of Matamata.
Volcanic
“Mt. Doom” (right) looks less vicious in real life but it is an active volcano that could erupt.
Lord of the Rings fans will be happy to see the famous Mount Doom, better known by its real name of Mt Ngauruhoe. It’s part of the dual World Heritage site that sits next to Tongariro National Park and it’s an active volcano. In fact, when you visit Tongariro National Park, you’ll see volcano alert systems to remind you that it really could “blow” at any time 😉.
Several popular hikes over volcanic terrain like this can be done in Tongariro.
Tongariro National Park is home to the Tongariro Northern Circuit, a four-day hike across the mountain and volcanic terrain. It’s also one of the nine “Great Walks.” For those that don’t have the time for a multi-day hike, there’s THE most popular day hike in New Zealand, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, which covers one stretch of the walk. If you decide to do this hike, be aware that it really is the most popular hike and it will be packed with people. If you want to avoid the crowds, there are tons of other hikes in the national park you can do, and you’ll find less people there.
