We stayed on this amazing Caribbean island in March 2023 and couldn’t decide which side to stay so we got an Airbnb in both French Saint Martin and Dutch Sint Maarten. If you’re not familiar with the island, it is governed by two cooperative sides…one is French and the other is Dutch. I’ll reveal our favorite…but first, here’s the main differences.
Nature Vs. Nightlife
If you are looking for serene beaches, secluded resorts, or immersion in nature, head to the French side of the island. Some of the less touristy beaches and nature hikes are located here. Our favorites included Pic Paradis (a short drive up to the tallest point on the island for a 360 degree view of the entire island) Pinel Island (a short drive to a ferry over to a secluded island that has 3-4 restaurants and a stretch of hiking trails).
In addition to these great spots, we had a fantastic lookout on the way to Anse Marcel (a high end secluded resort), and one of the best secluded beaches Happy Bay, all on the French side.
On the other hand, the Dutch side offers nightlife that is available all year long. Although we did not stay there (we stayed nearby in an adjacent neighborhood), Simpson Bay was packed with hotels, restaurants and bars…offering views of the bay, happy hours and a huge selection of restaurants. If you love dining out and nightlife, this is the place to go.
We also found the main town of Philipsburg to be amazing! One of our favorite larger Caribbean cities. It has shopping, beachside restaurants and bars, and is super friendly for a big town, not to mention…it’s affordable and there’s plenty of ways to escape the cruise ship crowds. You can join the locals in several hangouts near the beach and sink into the Caribbean way of life.
French Beaches Vs. Dutch Beaches
If you do any research on the island, you will quickly discover Saint Martin is known for its European topless beaches. Moving past this as a reason to visit a particular beach, we found that the beaches on the French side were quieter than the ones on the Dutch side (but in a good way). They are more natural and only really on one side of Grand Case can you find the “pay to use” European style beach clubs with beach loungers and umbrellas. Even the famous Orient Beach on the French side (with the full nude portion of the beach), has a full stretch of cluby beach chairs and umbrellas but also stretches for the common folk who like to bring a towel and their own food and drink. And there are several other more secluded beaches like Friars Bay beach (affordable beach chairs, umbrellas and restaurants), Happy Bay beach (requires a bit of a hike to get there), and Bai Rouge beach (very rough waves and no restaurants/bars).
On the Dutch side, beaches tend to be more accessible. You can reach most of the main beaches by bus. This is where you will find some of the most popular beaches like Maho Bay beach (near the airport landing strip), Mullet Bay beach, Cupacoy Bay beach (secluded small outcrop beaches) and Great Bay beach (in Philipsburg). Outside of the main population you will find other fantastic beaches near iconic resorts such as Dawn beach and Oyster Bay beach resort. Our favorite Dutch beach was Mullet Bay beach because it offers both restaurants, bars and beach cluby amenities on one side but open areas on the other side to bring your beach blankets and picnic items.
Restaurants and Bars
What can we say…the French really know how to prepare and serve amazing food! We stayed in Grand Case for 10 days and found the food to be unbelievable. If you are a foodie…this is where to go. Even if you are not into spectacular cuisine, Grand Case offers Lolo’s, an affordable Caribbean barbecue market with 4-5 restaurants serving the best (and I mean THE BEST) BBQ, potato salad and all the fixings you seek in a BBQ joint. It’s affordable, it’s easy and it’s outstanding. The other French restaurants in town might be a bit fancier but still reasonably priced.
On the Dutch side it’s all about convenience and diversity. You can find restaurants serving everything from Chinese food to Burgers and fries…from Italian to Caribbean. Mostly it’s the convenience and massive selection that makes the Dutch side stand out. You can easily get to many different options easily in most neighborhoods. And for the most part you can find reasonably priced options.
Our winners
Beaches – Tie for Grand Case beach (French side) and Mullet Bay beach (Dutch side)
Restaurants – Grand Case for amazing French cuisine and authentic Caribbean BBQ
Overall– We love nature and for that reason, the French side wins. However, if you don’t have a car, hands down the Dutch side is the way to go due to the ease of getting to most places on that side of the island.
